【Coachman's Overcoat】
Late 19th century France.
A robust coat worn by a carriage driver.
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| Real one, circa 1870 |
This coat has a quiet strength that perfectly fits the phrase "solid and sturdy".
This coat was found in an old French castle.
Four identical coats were found in a rusty trunk.
It is not flashy enough to attract the eye, but it is a back style that you can't help but admire.
Each classical detail creates a deep impression.
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| Coachman from Mrs. Seely's cook book (1902) |
This coat was worn by a "Coachman," a male servant in the service of his master.
It was tailored in a durable melton wool fabric that could withstand inclement weather and long working hours.
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| The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting Livery Garments 1890 |
The number of parts is very large compared to other coats.
The well-thought-out structure of the garment will fascinate you with its formative beauty that you will not find in the modern world.
It is best to determine the size based on "Bust".
Please measure the dimensions of your coat and compare them.
It is an overcoat, but designed to fit the body.
The shoulder width is slightly smaller than today, a characteristic of this period.
However, the sleeves are meticulously designed so they do not feel tight.
You should choose a size around +12-14cm (4.7-5.5 in) from your bust nude measurement.
For example, if your nude measurement is 101cm (40 inches), a size 5 or 6 would be a perfect fit.
Size 1 or 2 for 82.5cm(32.5 inches)
Size 3 or 4 for 91.5cm(36 inches)
Please use it as a reference when choosing your size.
Please watch them together.
(The coat in the video is arranged with a collar design)
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| Arranged in tailored collars |
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| Met Museum Archive |
Now, I will introduce the charm of 【Coachman's Overcoat】 along with the actual product I produced.
The silhouette changes dramatically with the opening and closing of the buttons.
This is characteristic of older patterns.
When the button is opened, the A-line silhouette with flare is emphasized.
When the button is closed, the chest will stand out in a vertical silhouette.
This change in modeling can be clearly seen in the fitting video.
Classical and neat looking.
A coat with an austere design for the experts.
The figure with buttons firmly fastened to the top is also beautiful.
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| Servants were expected to be well groomed and clean. |
Coachman's Overcoat is especially eye-catching in the back style.
Above, the shaded part is the key to creating a classical look.
This part is sometimes called "side body" in old tailoring books.
Most modern coats are constructed with a total of two parts, one on each side of the back, but the coachman's overcoat is different.
Including the side body, a total of four pieces are sewn together.
In addition, the shoulder line are lowered backward to create the back shape.
The "side body and back" and "back and front shoulder line" are darted toward the shoulder blades, creating a structure that wraps around the back.
Side body is indispensable in creating the shape, but it is also a supporting role that gives a classic look to the design.
Next, the "sword flap" that characterizes the backstyle is introduced.
The above area is called the sword flap.
However, the coachman does not insert his sword here.
The sword flap is retained as a decorative detail.
It seems to be a remnant of the "sword belt" that was attached to military uniforms in the 17th century and used to hold a sword.
Sword flap were already considered decorative in military tailoring books of the late 19th century, and the detail used to attach the sword was a seam called a "sword slit".
The backstyle of this sword flap and the matching side body create a coachman's look.
It is not only the back style.
The front also has distinctive details.
That is the "Rever".
This is a common part of frockcoats and tailcoats.
It is often thought that it is used to attach worship silk because it is often attached to formal wear, but this is not true.
Looking at the actual products of the time, the darts are made with Rever and the shapes are created.
In other words, the Rever can effectively create a sculpted chest when double breasted.
The coachman's overcoat also helps Rever in the chest molding.
A buttonhole is made between the "Rever" and the "Skirt".
The seams are "Seam buttonholes" for durability.
It is perfect for robust garments like Coachman's.
The back side of the Seam buttonholes is treated like this.
I finished it by hand, but it can be made with a sewing machine without any problem.
The overall view of the lining looks like this.
In this example, the facing is not attached in order to make it as thin and light as possible, since an extra-thick double-faced melton was used for the face.
The "change pocket" located above the belly button is also a typical Coachman's detail.
Since the coat was worn by a coachman, it was probably used to hold a pocket watch or coins.
The collar is made to fit around the neck to withstand inclement weather.
If the buttons are securely fastened to the top, rain and wind will not come in.
This type of collar is called a "Prussian collar" and was widely seen in the 19th century.
The collar is finished without a stand, just like the real thing.
The actual coachman's overcoat omits the collar stand and rolls the collar because the fabric is incredibly stiff.
Please be assured that the pattern I sell has a proper collar stand.
If you are a realist, how about choosing an extra-thick fabric and tailoring it without the collar waist?
It is an interesting tailoring and I was excited about it.
Now, here is the actual late 19th century French 【Coachman's Overcoat】
This coat tells the story of how hard the servants' work was.
Can you tell from the picture?
This massive appearance. It is a powerful piece of clothing.
The satin fabric walnut buttons give a neat impression.
The collar is painstakingly crafted.
The piping around the collar is easily fastened by hand sewing so that it can be replaced as soon as it gets dirty.
The servants were required to be clean.
And it is tailored without the collar stand.
I was really surprised when I saw it for the first time.
It is a very rational method that understands the characteristics of the material.
Here is a view of the collar from the lining side.
You can see that only the piping part is hand-stitched.
There is also a hook at the tip of the collar.
Lining.
Warm wool boa lining from the waist down.
The back also has a wool boa.
It has excellent heat retention properties.
Observing near the armholes, "canvas stitching" to hold the canvas in place can be seen on the side body.
It appears that the canvas is also firmly in place inside the boa.
Of course, canvas stitching can also be seen on the facing.
Two "VEE" can also be seen.
VEE is a technique to cut into the fabric on the armhole side to make it more comfortable to wear.
This coat is heavier than I expected.
I have been exposed to several heavy coats in my life.
This is one of the heaviest coats I have ever seen.
There is a continuous stitch running down the cuff.
This is the stitching that always goes into a coachman's overcoat.
A few tailoring books from the period confirm the stitching on the cuffs.
This stitching was probably a symbol of the coachman.
And it may have been meant to reinforce the cuffs, which were prone to fraying.
"Use heavy, thick fabrics.
"Sleeves should be sewn in such a way that they swing forward."
These words were written in a late 19th-century English drawing book called the "Livery Guide."
Of course, these words are prefixed with "servants' clothes are."
I believe that the reason for using heavy and thick fabrics is because of the importance of "appearance" in addition to durability.
If the fabric is heavy and thick, even if a servant is replaced by someone with a different body shape, the shoulders will not fall awkwardly or wrinkle in strange ways.
It is also easy to imagine that the weight of the coat on the body must have made the servants feel tense.
The forward-swept sleeves are the very sign of a worker.
Designed for ease of labor.
However, in the 17th and 18th centuries of the previous era, forward waving sleeves were also a "sign of nobility".
The sleeves of the nobility, who enjoyed dancing and hunting, were extremely curved.
As times change, so does the definition of beauty.
How does the Coachman's Overcoat look to you today?
It doesn't look like just a servant's workwear.
We invite you to make the Coachman's Overcoat your own.
I proudly recommend this beautiful coat.
